OK, so Sal’s inquiry resembled an angry statement more than it did a question, but he did raise a good point: Why DO we sell radiation detectors on a site that focuses mainly on water quality and water quality testing?

Rather than bore you with a long, drawn out explanation about how radioactive materials may naturally find their way into the water supply, we will instead provide you with a few pieces of information taken from an article we read recently:

• Hydraulic fracturing activity in Pennsylvania has generated waste that contains radioactive material.
   
• Data collected from water samples taken at and around the certain facilities in New York State that accepted Pennsylvania’s fracking leachate… has come under fire since a Syracuse laboratory very recently plead guilty to one felony count of mail fraud that quite possibly involved 3,300 falsified water tests and that laboratory performed a number of the tests at the facilities.
   
• Radioactive materials occur naturally in shale formations with concentrations varying from well to well and from formation to formation. Some experts believe the Marcellus Shale Formation could possibly contain the highest concentration of all the United States’ shale formations.
   
• Fracking waste includes brine, chunks of rock and ‘drilling mud’ which all could contain higher than desirable levels of radium isotopes in cluding one called Radium 226 which proves particularly worrisome since it dissolves in water — and could therefore travel quite far from the well site and/or dumping area during a good rainstorm.
   
• In this case Pennsylvania started looking into the matter of radioactivity and fracking waste in the beginning of 2013. New York State has started no such inquiry. Coincidentally, a certain company that manages fracking waste in Pennsylvania recently asked a landfill across the border to begin accepting fracking waste 49 percent faster than it had in the past.

The article goes into additional details about the situation in a community 80 miles south of Rochester and we suggest you read the full article so you can get the whole story.

Getting back to Sal’s question, though, tap water really ought not contain radioactive material. More than likely very few municipal water systems dispense drinking water that contains radioactive matter since things like that get monitored on a regular basis… BUT what about private water wells that NEVER get monitored for radioactive material?

Remember that part in the article about Radium 226, a naturally occurring radioactive material that dissolves in water? What if a person lives in an area where this material exists naturally under the ground in rock formations?

As ground water makes its way through rock formations containing Radium 226 and possibly to a well’s intake it likely picks up Radium 226 along the way… and carries it up to the surface where unsuspecting homeowners will use it for drinking, cooking, bathing, irrigation of foodstuffs, watering of livestock, etc.

Oh, and as you read in the article referenced above, companies responsible for disposing of potentially radioactive materials taken from hydraulic fracturing sites apparently have an interest in getting rid of those materials any way they can BEFORE the government catches them red-handed — or better yet, until the government catches them with glowing red hands.

For the sake of this article, and because it would make his/her inquiry make more sense, we will assume that Malli intended to ask for a method of testing for FLUORIDE levels in water.

Regretfully we have not heard of any ‘new’ methods a person can use to detect fluoride levels in drinking water since we last addressed this topic. Therefore we will continue to suggest using a meter such as the eXact Micro 7+ Water Testing Meter that uses Fluoride (SPADNS) Reagent to detect fluoride levels in water as low as 0.1 ppm and as high as 1.1 ppm.

One could also use the mail-in fluoride testing services of a company called National Testing Laboratories to determine how much, if any fluoride their drinking water contains.

So, Malli, once you determine if your water contains fluoride, next you will need to decide if you wish to remove or reduce that fluoride level… assuming you have fluoride in your water to begin with.

Removing/Reducing Fluoride Levels in Drinking Water?

When it comes to finding an effective means of reducing fluoride levels in drinking water, thus far our ‘research’ always points us down the same path… towards reverse osmosis water filters. The unit you see on the right, the Pentek RO-3500, has gone through testing and gotten certified by NSF/ANSI to Standard 58 for the reduction of Pentavalent Arsenic, Barium, Cadmium, Copper, Hexavalent & Trivalent Chromium, Cyst, Fluoride, Lead, Nitrate/Nitrite, Radium 226/228, Selenium, TDS and Turbidity.

Though definitely NOT the most expensive unit on the market, this filter has successfully passed third party testing, can produce nearly 8 gallons of crystal clear, filtered drinking water per day, and does so while reducing fluoride levels by more than 90%.

Moral of the story?

You will never know exactly how much fluoride, iron, copper, manganese, chlorine, salt, or other unwanted contaminants your water contains until you perform the appropriate tests on your water. Then, and only then, will you have the ability to make an educated decision regarding water treatment options.

This is my first time in this site,so I will give my feedback after.

In water testing for conductivity, the required measurement for potable water is what level, and the level of over 550 micro siemens is potable and any effect on the taste?

Thank you

We will begin by saying that scientists define conductivity in the following manner: A given quantity of water’s ability (or inability) to conduct electricity at a specific temperature. Dissolved solids in a water sample make it possible for the sample to conduct an electrical charge and therefore the greater the quantity of dissolved (usually inorganic) solids, the great the water’s conductivity value.

With that said, 100% pure water would contain no dissolved inorganic solids and therefore conduct no electricity.

Government & Regulatory Guidelines

To our knowledge the USEPA has not, yet, included conductivity in its Primary or Secondary Drinking Water Standards so we do wonder where Geoffrey got the value of 500 micro Siemens for a threshold for potable water.

We have seen situations, however, where regulatory bodies have placed upper limits on conductivity as a means of triggering more in-depth water quality evaluations. As an example, we have read that the EPA imposed a 300 to 500 micro Siemens threshold that would stop the issuing of coal mining permits in certain areas.

Conductivity and the taste of the water?

Quite frankly we believe the taste of the water would get determined not necessarily the the quantity of dissolved inorganic solids, but rather by the nature and character of the solids. In other words, dissolved salts would impart a salty taste while dissolved metals would more than likely impart a bitter, metallic taste to the water.

Do high conductivity readings always mean unnatural or man-made contamination of a water supply?

No, not at all. Higher than expected levels of conductivity may quite often result from virtually any activity that disturbs the area around a body of water. High winds during dry weather patterns can result in dust getting blown into water and pretty much any activity that ‘loosens’ or jars loose small pieces of solids could result in additional solids finding their way into a body of water.

Scientists have not, yet, found a clear and definitive link between elevated conductivity levels and the harmful contamination of water, though waters with definite contamination issues have, in many cases, also had elevated conductivity levels.

HM Digital QC-1 Quick Check Monitor
for TDS and Electrical Conductivity

1. Bill wants to test the fluoride level in his water before it goes into his water filter. As awe have said time and time again, without a baseline scan of your water’s quality you will undoubtedly run the risk of selecting the incorrect tools for cleaning up your water.

2. Then, Bill wants to test the fluoride levels in the water after it leaves his water filter to make sure the filter did its job. Continual monitoring of one’s filtered water quality gives real-time performance data on one’s chosen water improvement device(s).

Enough of our words, though, and let’s here from Bill himself: “I am looking for a fluoride test–I am installing a filter to remove fluoride–and want to know what levelis presecn Please advise–the page on your website says to use the eXact Micro 7+ Water Testing Meter but the product description says nothing about it being used for fluoride”

None of us here at Water Testing Blog have control over the content posted on the sites of merchants who sell the eXact Micro 7+ water testing meter… but we can assure you that the meter does have the ability to test for fluoride in drinking water.

As a direct result of your inquiry, Bill, we checked on the meter manufacturer’s web site for the current version of the eXact Micro 7+ water testing meter manual and on page 19 of the document you will find instructions on how to use their meter to test fluoride levels in drinking water.

As of 8/17/11, the date contained in the manual’s file name, the eXact Micro 7+ detects levels of fluoride in water as low as 0.1 ppm and as high as 1.1 ppm. As with any test procedure, use of proper dilution techniques would allow for the quantification of higher fluoride levels if needed.

Keep in mind, though, that the basic eXact Micro 7+ kit does not come with the necessary fluoride reagent strips. You will find those, along with many other optional reagentstrips for testing a bunch of other water quality parameters listed on the eXact Micro 7+ ReagentStrip page.

Sas your answer regarding chlorine not lasting long with the answer being that liquid chlorine without a stablizer was probably the problem. I’m using powdered shock and put 2 pounds in last night at 10 PM. This morning at 6 AM, there was just a trace of chlorine. I don’t want to empty the pool in the middle of the season, so can I use conditioner to make the chlorine last longer? Thank you.

Thank you for your question, JerseyGuy. Many of the powdered (also called granular) shocks on the market have calcium as their base and do not possess stabilizer. For that reason the situation you described where 2 pounds of shock literally vanished overnight makes sense… providing you have not added chlorine stabilizer to the water at some point.

If you have not added any stabilizer (cyanuric acid) this year, then certainly putting some in now should help you maintain a healthy chlorine residual in your pool water.

If, on the other hand, you have added chlorine stabilizer and still cannot maintain a healthy chlorine level, you either have an abundance of contaminants in the water that require your chlorine’s immediate attention or you may not have enough chlorine stabilizer in the water.

Testing for Chlorine Stabilizer?

Several different test methods for cyanuric acid exist: 1) Wet Kits; 2) Test Strips; 3) Water Testing Meters.

• Wet Kits for Stabilizer Testing: Test kits of this nature use a chemical reagent that reacts with chlorine stabilizer to create a white substance in test samples which makes the water turbid and difficult to see through. Analysts then measure chlorine stabilizer levels as a function of turbidity.
• Test Strips for Stabilizer Testing: Test kits of this sort use a small piece of chemically impregnated cloth which changes color in the presence of cyanuric acid. Analysts then measure chlorine stabilizer levels as a function of change in color.

• Meters for Stabilizer Testing: These devices typically use the same principles as wet kits for determining cyanuric acid levels in pool water samples except the meter interprets turbidity levels instead of analysts taking the measurements. Given the very subjective nature of quantifying turbidity in a sample, meters generally tend to give more accurate and repeatable results.

So, JerseyGuy, if you have clear water at this time and still cannot maintain a proper chlorine residual, first we suggest determining if you have any stabilizer already in your water. Then we suggest bringing the level up to around 30 or 40 parts per million.

We hope this helps!

Dear Sir/Madam,
hope you will be fine.i need some information regarding digital chlorine tester for swimming pool water .i read about extech cl200 testing metre.kindly send me the literature and price for it .
thanks
an early response is appreciable
farhan

Now before any of you go and criticize this person’s grammatical skills when typing in English, think more about the person’s commitment to keeping a proper chlorine level in swimming pool and the time it took to submit a question to this site.

WE commend ‘Farhan’ for his/her efforts and for transcending the language barrier to ask a question about proper chlorine testing in pool water.

On the topic of the “Extech 1200C” for chlorine testing in pool water, we took a look at the ExTech web site and did not find a meter in the chlorine/fluoride in water detection called the ‘Extech 1200C’… so we found ourselves a bit puzzled by your question.

We DID, however, see the ExTech CL200 Chlorine Testing Meter which uses Extech (CL203) Exstik ExTab™ Chlorine Reagent Tablets, a undoubtedly a proprietary blend of DPD-1 & DPD-3 reagents, to test for ONLY total chlorine concentrations in water.

The obvious problem we see with this meter for pool water testing, despite its USEPA credentials for total chlorine testing (in waste water), deal with the meter’s INability to test for free chlorine concentrations in water.

Proper Pool Water Testing Requires Free AND Total Chlorine Testing!

That heading said it all. Proper pool water care requires both free AND total chlorine testing.

Why? Quite simply, it does little good for the sanitation of a pool to have an in-range total chlorine reading with a very low, or non-existent, free chlorine reading. When that happens the pool contains mostly, if not entirely, chloramines (aka: combined/used chlorine molecules) which possess very little (limited) oxidizing power… and limited oxidizing power means limited sanitizing capabilities.

Improperly sanitized pool water can EASILY become a home in which various bacteria, parasites and viral ‘issues’ which will flourish, breed and infect swimmers if left unchecked.

Repeated Moral of the Story

Invest in a meter that test for both total chlorine concentrations AND free chlorine concentrations.

We suggest using a meter like the eXact Micro 7+ Pool & Spa Meter because it tests for not only free AND total chlorine, but also for Total Alkalinity, Bromine, Calcium Hardness, Copper, Ozone, Permanganate, and pH… all with the same meter!

Earlier we talked about the Extech’s USEPA credentials so naturally we figure you want to know if the eXact Micro 7+ Meter has credentials, too — and it does! When used with DPD chemistry (and the appropriate procedures, of course) the meter qualifies as an EPA Compliant device for testing free an total chlorine in drinking water.

“But Wait! There’s More!” Screamed the Announcer

As an added bonus, the eXact Micro 7+ Pool Meter also has the ability to test for Ammonia, Chloride/Salt, Chlorine Dioxide, Chromium Hexavalent, Cyanuric Acid, Iodine, Iron, Low Range Total Hardness, Manganese, Nitrate, Nitrite, Acid pH, Alkali pH, Potassium, Sulfate, Sulfide, and Turbidity — when operated in ‘% Transmission’ mode with the appropriate eXact Micro 7+ Reagent Strips.

“Do they make meters for pool testing that regular people can afford? Last yr our poolguy had a meter and I asked him how much it cost. He told me one thousand and some change. He lie to me so I would not go get one and he loses a customer?”

Wow. Interesting situation, right? Personally we’d have fired the guy for telling an outlandish lie. Yeah, sure, SOME equipment used to test pool water MAY cost upwards of a thousand dollars or more, but would the average pool maintenance person REALLY spend that kind of money? We doubt it.

We suggest, Lassie, that you take a look at the eXact Micro 7+ Pool Water Testing Meter… which costs well under a thousand dollars, by the way. 😛

Combining the reliability and repeatability of a photometer w/ the dependability of proven chemistry methods such as DPD (for chlorine testing) and phenol red (for pH testing), the eXact Micro 7+ Pool Testing Meter puts the power of accurate water testing into the hands of the people who need it most: pool owners.

A definite advantage offered by this particular pool meter: Versatility. The pool testing meter tests for 7 critical pool water parameters directly and with the use of a conversion chart and correct reagentstrip it can test for a number of other water parameters, as well.

What comes in pool water test kit?

In the basic kit you will find everything you need to test for free chlorine, total chlorine, pH, calcium hardness, total alkalinity, dissolved copper, and cyanuric acid.

As an immediate example of this need, a Water Testing Blog reader named John recently asked, “Hi I am installing a 5000 litre water tank which i intend to add chlorine to and need an inexpensive free chlorine meter could you advise me on what to purchase as this is a new venture for me. Regards,John M.”

Thank you, John, for your question and more importantly for reminding us that we needed to examine the cost of chlorine meters at some of our favorite online merchants: FiltersFast.Com and FilterWater.Com.

In no particular order…

• FiltersFast.Com still carries the eXact Micro 7+ Water Testing Meter and they currently sell the basic water quality kit for $200.

  While perusing the site we noticed that FiltersFast.Com appears to carry several of the more commonly used replacement reagentstrip bottles for the eXact Micro 7+ meter: Total Alkalinity, Bromine, Calcium Hardness, Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, Copper, Ozone, Permanganate, pH.

  eXact Micro 7+ pH Test 486639

  eXact Micro 7+ Copper Test 486632

  eXact Micro 7+ Free Chlorine 486637

  eXact Micro 7+ Total Chlorine 486670

  eXact Micro 7+ Total Alkalinity 486641

  eXact Micro 7+ Calcium Hardness 486629

  We saw no other chlorine testing meters available on the site.

• FilterWater.Com continues to carry the eXact line of water testing meters and currently has three kit versions of the eXact Micro 7+ available: Standard Water Quality for $249, Pool and Spa for $249 and Chlorine Photometer for $229.

  Each kit features the same meter, but comes with a different set of reagentstrip bottles tailored to meet the needs of a specific water testing application/market.

  In addition to the eXact Micro 7+ meter kits, we also noticed that FilterWater.Com also carries a newer eXact meter called the eXact Micro 8 Meter. That meter did not, however, appear to test for chlorine.

And in conclusion…

The USEPA approves of using DPD when testing drinking water and/or wastewater for chlorine content. Therefore, we suggest you invest in a system that uses DPD for free chlorine and/or total chlorine residual testing.

EPA Compliant Meter for Free & Total Chlorine Testing
. . . When Used w/ Reliable, Trusted DPD Chemistry

Below you will find a list of the water quality parameters that this meter will test along w/ the meter’s detection levels for each parameter.

Testing Capabilities of the eXact Micro 8 Meter

While this meter seems to offer tremendous promise for water quality professionals, we do not think it will work well for the average homeowner who will more likely have more of a need to test for things like free & total chlorine, (standard) pH and copper than they would ammonia, cyanide and phosphates.

This meter, we feel, will have a lot more popularity with water and waste water professionals who, we hope, will do their due diligence and test for things like ammonia, cyanide and phosphates in drinking and process water.

So… What meter can the average homeowner use to test drinking water?

If the convenience, repeatability and accuracy of a water testing meter appeals to you, then take a look at the predecessor to the eXact Micro 8: The eXact Micro 7+ Water Testing Meter.

We have yet to find a simpler, more versatile water testing meter than the eXact Micro 7+ Water Testing Meter. It can test for Total Alkalinity, Bromine, Calcium Hardness, Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, Copper, Ozone, Permanganate, and pH directly — providing you use the correct reagentstrip.

With the use of optional reagentstrips and a conversion-lookup table, the eXact Micro 7+ Meter has the ability to test water for these other parameters, too: Ammonia, Bromine, Chloride/Salt, Chlorine Dioxide, Chromium Hexavalent (Chromium VI), Copper, Cyanuric Acid, Fluoride, Iodine, Iron, Low Range Total Hardness, Manganese, Nitrate, Nitrite, Ozone, Acid pH, Alkali pH, Potassium, Sulfate, Sulfide, and Turbidity.

As a general rule, if your water has a chlorine smell to it, then you most likely have, at the very least, chloramines (combined chlorine) present. This does not, however, rule out the possibility that your water also may contain a free chlorine residual, too.

For the record, health officials and scientists agree that chlorine gas does NOT do the body any favors and in too great a quantity can cause lung and eye irritation… so we suggest not performing the ‘sniff test’ if you can help it.

Taste test: Not all water that contains chlorine will smell like a swimming pool. While combined chlorine (chloramines) has a strong odor associated with it, free chlorine does not. Therefore water that may not stink like chlorine may still possess a strong chlorine taste.

We do NOT advocate the taste test method for any reason. We mentioned it just so that we could talk about why water can lack a strong chlorine smell and yet still have a strong chlorine taste.

Chemical test kit: We know of many different test kits that the general public can use to determine the free and/or total chlorine concentrations in their drinking water.

“Wait… Did you just talk about two different types of chlorine?”

Yes, because as we discussed during a few moments ago, one can have free chlorine and/or combined chlorine in their water. Typically free chlorine acts as the main sanitizing and/or disinfecting agent in a chlorinated water supply and once the free chlorine finds an organic contaminant to ‘kill’, it becomes entangled with the contaminant and forms a combined chlorine molecule.

Therefore, it stands to reason that a chlorinated water supply may contain both free and combined chlorine at the same time if the free chlorine molecules have successfully neutralized all biological contaminants and the effort did not require the use/exhaustion of all free chlorine molecules present in the water supply.

Getting back to chemical test kits, please…

Now that we have established the existence of different types of chlorine which may or may not exist in a water supply, we will now discuss different ways of testing for chlorine in a water supply.

• Test Strips — Perfect for field testing because they require the user only to dip the strip into the water and compare the color of the test pad/area to a color chart that came with the package of test strips. Products exist for the detection of both free and total chlorine. People can even get a single test strip to test for both at the same using a product called WaterWorks 2
• ‘Wet’ Chemical Test Kits — Considered by most as the traditional, tried and true method for testing the quality of water. Most ‘wet’ kits typically require dissolving DPD as a tablet, powder or liquid into water samples and either comparing the colors of resultant solutions to color charts or adding drops of an additional chemical until a second color change reaction occurs.

  Simpler ‘wet chemistry’ test kits for chlorine (i.e. 2-way pool water test kits) use a different chemical called OTO (Orthotolidine) and detect total chlorine (free chlorine + combined chlorine = total chlorine).

  Problem w/ using OTO: No way exists to use OTO in a way that will allow a person to determine the free chlorine concentration.

  The DPD reagent system does, however, allow for differentiation between the two if a water sample has DPD-1 added first, gets analyzed, and then has DPD-3 added… and then get analyzed again.

• Water Testing Meters — Most water testing meters for chlorine (i.e. the eXact Chlorine Photometer) require the use of DPD, a chemical indicator which turns a shade of pink/red in the presence of chlorine molecules. DPD-1 indicates the presence of free chlorine and a combination of DPD-1 plus DPD-3 indicates the presence of free and/or combined chlorine (total chlorine).

So… Which method of chlorine testing will work best for you? Ask yourself the following questions:

1) Do you need to test for free chlorine, total chlorine or both?

2) How much accuracy and precision will you need in your results?

3) If performing testing for reporting purposes, what do the rules and regulations governing your profession say you must use as a testing methods?

Once you have answered those three questions you will have a clear idea of whether you should use chlorine test strips, wet chemistry test kits for chlorine testing or chlorine testing meters to determine chlorine concentrations in your water.